Brandy with Terroir and Fat-fighters? Break out the Goose Livers!

I read an article in the June 2008 issue of France Today about Armagnac and I’m ready to book my trip to Gascony. Armagnac is the only type of brandy which is produced in vintages sporting noticeable differences from year to year, and unlike Cognac which is double-distilled, Armagnac is distilled only once allowing more distinctive characteristics to be retained. Perhaps some would argue that Armagnac is less refined than Cognac but judging by the following passage, no one can deny that the stuff is dripping with charm:

…by and large armagnac is made in the old-fashioned artisanal way. Although the larger châteaux have their own stills, many small producers continue to rely on traveling alambics that make the rounds after the grapes have been converted into wine…purists insist on barrels made from the black oak of the local Monlezun forest or the Armagnac Noir forests in the Landes. Preferably the staves should be hewn from trees that are at least a hundred years old; the oak is then seasoned for as long as 15 years before it’s deemed ready to host the new-run armagnac.

The article titled Armagnac: Amber Paradox also reveals that Armagnac fends off fat like no other spirit:

The same researchers have since discovered that rats fed on a high-fat diet and armagnac did not gain weight, unlike rats fed the same food and a substitute alcohol.

I was intrigued by this insight since most of my reading on alcohol and weight gain has said that alcohol inhibits fat-burning by up to 73%.

I did a little checking on this Armagnac Study and found that Decanter magazine reported on the findings in an article in February 2007. The Decanter article says that the Armagnac-dosed rats gained less weight compared to rats on the same high-fat diet supplemented with pure ethanol. I couldn’t find the actual study but, I’d wager that Decanter’s telling is a little more accurate. Armagnac isn’t a magic fat-fighting bullet, but it’s better than nothing.

The moral of the story: Foie Gras is still fattening but, it’s considerably less fattening when consumed with Armagnac!

A Good Dry Riesling & Seafood Pairing

We went out for dinner Saturday night and not only did we both decide on seafood entrees, but we both selected entrees where lobster featured prominently. What luck--a perfect opportunity to order up a bottle of Riesling! The luck didn’t end there: The restaurant offered a 2004 Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Les Princes Abbés for $24 for a 750 ml bottle which is scarcely more than 50% above retail.

The wine had nice tropical fruit notes on the nose, with mild green apple and pear on the palate, and a floral and mineral finish. It was very pleasant wine and we both enjoyed it. It continued to give up different nuances in reaction to different shellfish delights: Cherry stones brought out a ‘dusky’ character, tropical fruit sparkled after a bite of shrimp, but of course, the star of the evening was the lobster.

I had the lobster crêpe: A pillowy crêpe stuffed with tender chunks of sweet lobster, fresh mozzarella, and braised leeks and topped with a tomato cream sauce drizzled with crème fraîche. The sauce had a slightly caramel flavor and I ate every drop. The Riesling went perfectly with this dish: It was a total yum-fest.

We brought the unfinished bottle home and drank the remainder the following day with a snack of finn crisp with herbed cheese and smoked salmon. As long as I keep some dry Alsace Riesling such as the Domaines Schlumberger on hand to have with shellfish, and a less dry Riesling to pair with spicy dishes, I’ll be pretty much set for summer.

Things are up in the air, Post Script.

We took the Salem Ferry down to Boston this morning for a walk around the historical end of town. On the way back we stopped into the Salem Wine Imports and checked on the status of Solatione Chianti Classico. It is indeed gone and will not be coming back. The importer sold out and has elected not to import it again because of a cost increase which pushes it out of the value range.

I had an opportunity to try Tomaiolo Toscana, IGT 2005 at Salem Wine Imports. This Super Tuscan is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot. It’s berry forward, full bodied, with good tannins and a pleasant finish. It is a comparable wine to the Solantione at a better price, and it's still available so give it a try. We grabbed a bottle and will do a full write-up at a later date.

We had a bottle of Tomaiolo Riserva 2003 Chianti DOCG Sangiovese in February that we thoroughly enjoyed.

Things are up in the air.

Taster B is making pizza. What do you have with pizza? Chianti Classico! And we found a nice Chianti Classico a few months ago at Salem Wine Imports. It was in short supply as it was sold out on the tasting night.

Solatione is located in the heart of Chianti Classico region. The winery gets its name from the great exposition of the sun. The Vineyard is thirteen hectares, family owned and operated since 1972. Until 1991 the wine was sold to other vintners but in 1992 Fabio and Francesca (brother and sister) decided to bottle their own wines. The Chianti Classico is aged in Slovenic oak barrels for 12/16 months. This wine was definitely very delicious, well structured and firm tannins and very Sangiovese.

The Slovenian barrels add a very smooth and distinctive structure to the wine. It will not impart oak and smoke to the wine, but give it nice aging and balance. This is great, because for my money, when I want Sangiovese, I want a nice berry wine with floral components. That is why I like this wine.


Chianti Classico D.O.C.G
Solatione

Vintage: 2004
Alcohol: 13.5
Price: $20.99

Color: Ruby Red
Intensity: Medium
Aromas: Strawberry, raspberry, cherry, olive, smoked meat, floral
Flavors: Strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, pomegranate, cassis, tar, stone, mineral, anise,
Body: medium
Acidity: crisp and tart
Sweetness: dry
Tannins: suede
Finish: moderately long

Summary: We’ve talked about the difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico. This is a very berry forward wine grown in a hot region. What stands this wine apart from other Sangiovese wines we have had is the mineral, the brightness and the tartness. I’m enjoying a one ounce pour prior to dinner while I write this post. Yes you should have food with wine, pizza wasn’t the best of pairings. The wine wasn’t full bodied enough. But so what??? It’s a good bottle and I’m glad we go it.

Tribute to a California Wine Icon

Robert Mondavi, wine maker, businessman, and philanthropist died today at the age of 94. Following the lead of Dr. Debs, we decided to open a Robert Mondavi wine tonight in his honor.

We lifted a glass of Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2006 Pinot Noir, and it was a pleasant surprise. It was very food friendly and went just wonderfully with chicken fajitas. You wouldn't expect much from a $12 Pinot Noir, and while this wine is somewhat hollow in the mid-palate and doesn't sport a long finish, it is balanced and true-to-type. The nose displays nice aromas of cherry, raspberry, and herbs, with cherry, allspice, and anise on the palate. Overall, an enjoyable table wine which aligns with Mondavi's philosophy of wine as a meal enhancement.

Incidentally, there is a nice Robert Mondavi tribute up on Appellation America that was only posted 10 days ago while he was still in the realm of "living legend."

Tuscany wine bridges Old World and New World

Poggio alle Sughere Morellino de Scansano D.O.C. is a wine that we picked up at The Vineyard in North Andover earlier this year at their large Italian wine tasting. It is always fun to see what happens when you get a bottle home.

Scansano is in the Southern end of Tuscany and is a new region opened up in the last ten years. This region is being compared to California because of the explosion around this town. This wine has stepped in to be the quality wine to fill the void left by the quality Chianti wines when they shot up in price.

Our label is straight forward for Italian. The Poggio alle Sughere estate in Magliano, Toscana in the heart of the Maremma zone. This Morellino di Scansano is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This warm environment with perfect rainfall means that Morellino di Scansano give this great fruit flavors, wonderful savory herb notes and just the right pizzazz.

Morellino di Scansano D.O.C. is Sangiovese (Morellino), 85% to 100%. Other red grapes may be used to a maximum of 15%. Aging is two years minimum for Rosso Riserva with a minimum of 1 year in wood. (Note that this is not a riserva wine.)


Morellino di Scansano
Poggio alle Sugghere
Maremma area of Tuscany
Vintage: 2003
Alcohol: 13.0%
Price: $16.99

Color: Brick
Intensity: Medium
Aromas: Cherry, jam, raisin, olive, earth, with a hint of vanilla
Flavors: Strawberry, black cherry, pomegranate, prune, cassis, olive, earth, tar, coffee, chocolate, rosemary, sage with slight spiciness of allspice and anise.
Body: Full
Acidity: Moderate
Sweetness: Dry
Tannins: Silk
Finish: Long

Summary: Think of this wine as a good bridge between the New World from the Old World. It shows the restrained use of wood aging with herbal notes and well developed fruit flavors. The dark red fruit flavors are tempered by the dried fruit flavors and earth, tar, chocolate and coffee. Nothing about this wine is overbearing.

We enjoyed this wine with a pizza topped with artichoke, roasted banana pepper, fresh mozzarella, and thin sliced fresh tomato. The wine stood up to the saltiness of the cheese and the acidity of the tomato.

The Poddio alla Sughere is a well crafted wine and quite a treat. We will enjoy this with another meal. We are just delighted that it bridges the styles of three of our favorite regions, Côtes du Rhône, Sonoma and Tuscany. The wine region was established without a long standing tradition of having a regional wine style. Therefore, when the D.O.C. was established in 1997, it was not restrained and could make Super Tuscan style wines. The result in this case is a wine with the character of Côtes du Rhône with the courage to be modern.

A final note: If you are in the North East Massachusetts area, get yourself on The Vineyard’s email list. They have quality tastings and a very good selection.

Oak and Living the Dream

We bring our wines to our eyes, noses and mouths for evaluation and enjoyment and we imagine how this wine may have been treated. When we think of oak aging, chances are that we get a picture similar to this.


Is this always what happens? Perhaps the wine industry would have us believe this. How many marketing impressions of wine have you seen that include oak dust, chips, staves, and beans? Not many and unless you are in the industry, you probably have never seen or heard of these. It would be pretty odd marketing.

Barrels like those shown come from French, American and Central European manufacturers. These barrels are becoming more and more expensive. Wineries are looking for ways to remain competitive. Competitive may mean remaining in a price point in spite of rising costs, producing a higher quality product in the price point the brand is in, or maximizing profits.

All of this is not very interesting to me as a consumer and not worth mentioning in this forum, but for one fact…barrel alternatives provide a way to provide a quality product while reducing the pressure on the forests.

Other than wood, wine is produced in stainless steel tanks, concrete tanks, and poly. They all have their merits. All of these are reusable. However it is the oak wood that imparts tannins, enhances roundness and helps stabilize color. Oak barrels also allow and exchange of oxygen in the wine.

A barrel has its strongest impact with its first use. Three times is about the max for most barrels. Thus a winery has to keep forking out for new barrels, trees get cut down and well eventually wine up somewhere as ash or trash.


Extending barrel life
Wineries are starting to refurbish their barrels. Barrels are sent to the cooper and have their insides shaved and toasted. Thus a barrel gets a new life and the wine maker has a barrel at the fraction of the cost. This is a growing market segment for coopers.

Another method of extending a barrel’s life is to put a ring of staves inside the barrel. The cooper removes the top of the barrel and inserts a lining of new wood. This also is a cheaper alternative to new cooperage.

Other wood products
For those producers choose not to compete in a price point that will support the use of cooperage, there are alternatives and these alternatives are even finding their way into boutique wineries as well. Oak chips,flour, slats and spirals, are being used in barriques to help keep quality up without the expense of new barrels.

The skill of the winemaker must be expanded to use these materials. With oak, it’s the surface exposed to the wine in proportion to the volume of wine that is important. So the winemaker must decide if he wants to use flour with a high, almost impossible to control surface area, slats or “beans”. Beans offer a very predictable surface area and are easy to get into and out of barrels.

I am happy to see these products being used when they are used judiciously. There will always be a need for new cooperage and these products are made from the leftover lumber that is not suitable for making staves. This give a chance to produce a higher quality wines at a lower price point, barrels having longer life and there is less pressure on the forests. Seems good.

These products can be used in an attempt to mask an inferior wine. You can trick out a wine with turbo-chargers, chrome pipes, mag wheels and a Holly four-barrel, but you will still wind up with funky wine. Oak and toast will not make a bad harvest good. For a good example of this compare the 2005 and 2006 Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio. Flaws cannot be hidden.

These interventions are a fact of the wine business. Keep it in perspective. It can bring variety to our world or it can bring homogeneity. Winemakers are using them. The marketers are spinning the dream. The public is buying.

What do you think? Is the dream important?